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Oakley Roofing

Herne Bay ยท covering Kent

Chimneys And Leadwork

If you have a leak that nobody can find, there is a decent chance it is the chimney. Water gets into a stack in four or five predictable places, and none of them are the hole you can see.

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Why chimneys leak so much more than roofs

A roof slope is one continuous surface doing one job. A chimney is a column of brickwork punched straight through that surface, sticking up into the worst of the weather, made of a material that soaks up water and held together with mortar that does not last as long as the bricks do. It is the most exposed and most complicated thing on the building.

It also leaks in a way that disguises itself. Water enters at the top or the sides, runs down inside the stack or along a rafter, and appears somewhere else entirely - often on a bedroom wall a metre away from the breast, which sends people looking at their windows or their pointing. Damp on a chimney breast in a loft is worth a proper look even if nothing downstairs has stained yet.

The places it actually gets in

Cracked flaunching at the top. Open joints where the pointing has washed out. The back gutter behind the stack, which fills with debris and then overflows under the tiles. Perished lead soakers and step flashings down the sides. And, on a disused stack, straight down an open pot that nobody ever capped.

Repointing, and doing it with the right mortar

Repointing a stack is straightforward work that is easy to do badly. The old mortar gets raked out to a decent depth - not scratched at the surface - and replaced with something appropriate to the brick. On the older soft reds you see around Whitstable and Faversham that means a lime-based mix, not a hard cement one.

This is not fussiness. A cement mortar is stronger than a soft Victorian brick, so when the wall moves or when trapped water freezes, the brick face blows off instead of the mortar. You end up with a stack that sheds its bricks rather than its pointing, which is a much more expensive problem. It is one of the few things on a roof where the cheap option actively causes damage rather than just wearing out sooner.

Salt air and lead

Close to the front at Herne Bay, Tankerton or Reculver, the thing that shortens a chimney's life is not rain, it is salt. It draws moisture into the brickwork and keeps it there, it accelerates the corrosion of any ferrous fixing near it, and it crystallises inside the pores of soft brick and pushes the face off from the inside.

It is also a reason to be generous with lead rather than clever with it. Lead does not care about salt, which is why it is still the material of choice on the exposed coast a couple of thousand years after somebody first worked out you could beat it into shape.

Capping a stack you no longer use

Most houses around here have at least one flue doing nothing. Left open, it collects rain, and every litre that goes down it has to evaporate back out through the brickwork and the plaster of the room below. Sealed up completely, it goes damp and musty for the opposite reason - no air movement at all.

The answer is a capping pot or a vented cowl that keeps the rain and the birds out while letting the flue breathe, plus an airbrick at the bottom if the fireplace has been closed off. It is a cheap job that solves a surprising number of "rising damp" diagnoses in upstairs bedrooms.

Questions I get asked

My chimney is not used any more. Can I just take it down?
You can, and sometimes it is the right answer - it removes the leak permanently and takes weight off the roof. Two things to check first: whether the stack is shared with next door, and whether anything else is still venting into it. If it comes down, the roof has to be closed up properly where it was, not just tiled over.
What is flaunching?
The sloped mortar cap on top of the stack that the pots sit in. It sheds water off the top of the brickwork, and it is usually the first thing to fail because it takes the full weather with nothing above it. Cracked flaunching lets water straight down inside the stack, which then appears as damp in the bedroom, nowhere near the roof.
Do you use lead, or one of the flashing tapes?
Lead, for anything that is meant to last. The self-adhesive flashing tapes have their place on a shed or as a genuine emergency stop-gap, but they rely on an adhesive bond to brickwork and they do not survive the heat cycling on a south-facing stack. Lead dressed into a raked-out joint and pointed will outlive the rest of the roof.

Not sure how bad it is?

That is normally the reason people put off ringing. Getting me to come and look costs nothing, and quite often the answer is that it can wait.